Bare-root
Not typical for this profileNot a routine choice for starting a patio plant; rooted container stock is preferable.
Olea europaea
New growth appears in spring and early summer, later in cool conditions.
Small creamy flowers; young plants or unsuitable winter conditions may mean no flowering.
Evergreen: individual old leaves fall through the year. Sudden heavy loss is not a normal autumn phase.
Shape and maintain in spring during frost-free weather; start later in colder locations.
Guidance for Germany and Central Europe. Position, weather, species and cultivar shift these windows; indoor and container plants also depend on their winter conditions.
Months: Jan · Feb · Mar · Apr · May · Jun · Jul · Aug · Sep · Oct · Nov · Dec
Check root-ball moisture throughout the year. When the surface compost has dried and the root ball needs water, water thoroughly and let excess water drain. Check more often in warm summer weather and water less in cool winter quarters. Avoid both a completely dry root ball and persistently wet compost.
Months: Apr · May · Jun · Jul · Aug · Sep
Feed during active growth. April to September is the regular application period of the linked olive fertiliser; follow its own dilution and interval. Allow for feed already in fresh compost and previous applications. Pause during dormancy.
View product dosage and application →Months: Mar · Apr · May
In spring, check whether roots have filled the container or the compost has lost its structure. Repot when needed, using a suitable container with drainage and a free-draining growing medium. In colder areas, choose a sheltered, frost-free spell.
Months: Jan · Feb · Mar · Oct · Nov · Dec
Prepare bright, cool and preferably frost-free winter quarters in autumn. Protect the container from severe frost; local weather determines when to move it inside or outside. Continue checking light, root-ball moisture and pests through winter.
Highlighted months are guidance, not fixed dates. Observe the plant, root ball and weather; water, feed and repot according to actual need.
Seasonal guidance for Germany. Needs depend on location, weather and species. Check moisture in winter too; these markers are not a feeding schedule.
Olives are stone fruits that change from green to darker ripening colours. Cultivar, flowering and pollination determine cropping; some ornamental selections produce little or no fruit.
Pick green or fully coloured according to the intended processing method. Fresh olives are very bitter and need appropriate curing; full ripening is not assured every year in central-European containers.
Choose warmth, full sun and shelter. Free drainage is essential; protect container roots from severe frost and prolonged wet conditions.
Once established it tolerates drought, but a confined container still needs regular moisture checks.
Silvery foliage and a distinctive trunk provide year-round structure. Suitable cultivars and weather may produce fruit, which is bitter when freshly picked.
Pollination is mainly by wind. A compatible second cultivar can improve fruit set; any second olive is not necessarily a suitable partner.
A slow-growing tree or multi-stemmed shrub, often developing a gnarled trunk and an open, irregular crown.
Confirm which branches have died over winter. Identify young shoots that can form an open crown.
Remove dead, diseased and badly crossing branches. Shorten living main branches to a suitable replacement side shoot.
Clipping the whole crown into a ball removes flowering wood. Prune less for fruit than for a purely ornamental topiary.
This overview explains nursery supply forms. It does not indicate current availability in the GREEN24 shop.
Not a routine choice for starting a patio plant; rooted container stock is preferable.
Used for large older specimens; rootball condition and establishment matter more than trunk thickness.
The usual choice for patios, winter quarters and young trees.
Small stock for long-term training; fruiting should not be assumed.
A multi-stemmed plant branching close to the base.
A trunk with low side branches; inspect the actual form.
A short clear stem supporting a crown.
A taller clear stem; allow room for the crown and ensure stability.
Ball, umbrella or informal trained form requiring maintenance pruning.
Semi-ripe summer cuttings preserve the cultivar. Seedlings vary and may take years to fruit.
Both own-root and grafted plants occur. Grafting can change the cultivar; a standard shape alone does not prove grafting.
A small-fruited oil cultivar; fruiting depends on conditions and pollination.
An Italian oil cultivar; select a suitable polliniser if fruit is the aim.
Selected as a largely fruitless ornamental form.
These signs support an initial assessment. Different causes may look alike; choose a treatment only after identifying the problem.
Check leaves, twigs and winter quarters for attached scales and sticky deposits.
Dark circular marks with pale halos can suggest a leaf-spot disease. Confirm the cause, collect fallen leaves and avoid prolonged leaf wetness.
Check rootball moisture and light first: both drought and persistently wet roots can cause leaf loss.
Check cultivar, age and winter wetness.
USDA zones describe long-term average winter extremes. Containers, young plants, wet soil, wind and late frost need separate consideration.
Understand USDA zones and maps →
Small creamy-white flowers and buds on an olive branch with narrow leaves.
A narrow, entire-margined Olea europaea leaf with a visible midrib.
H. Zell · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Image source
Green olives and olives ripening to purple on a leafy branch.
Close-up of the textured bark of Olea europaea.
H. Zell · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Image source
Olive tree in a terracotta container on a pale stone terrace.
Botanical features vary with age, species and cultivar.
Matching fertilisers and substrates for your plant care.